Viking’s winemaker is the eminent Rolf Binder. This unfiltered cuvee, made from small yields and aged in two-thirds American and one-third French oak, was tightly knit the day I tasted it. A dense ruby/purple color accompanies a big, chunky nose of black fruits, earth, pepper, and background vanilla. The sweet, glycerin-imbued, full-throttle attack is followed by fine purity, loads of texture, and a lusty finish. Give this 2002 another 1-2 years of bottle age, and drink it over the next 10-12.